Thursday, April 19, 2012

Viljandi (Estonia)

The bus ride from Valka/ Valga to Viljandi was mostly uneventful, despite the promising moose-crossing signs on the roads. While the Latvian countryside had continued to evoke the Midwestern U.S. (flat, snowy farmland unbroken except for the occasional small copse or windbreak of trees and decrepit barn), the rolling landscape around Viljandi reminded Rich of a postcard England. The town helped, too. Cottagey buildings and village greens were tucked into winding, narrow streets. All that was really missing were the thatched roofs.

Castle Park (yes, more castles!) is the star of Viljandi. There are ruins of a 13th Century Teutonic Knight castle, plunging ravines where the ancient moat lay, and a picturesque suspension bridge. There is also a lake at the foot of the park - frozen currently - that in the summer sees all manner of water sports.

The Kondas Centre showcases famous local artists. The eponymous Estonian artist Paul Kondas is best known for Strawberry Eaters, an oil painting which for me looks like sunburned folks with creepy smiles all going for a bowl of fruit just before they go after YOU! It's true - you can tell by the glint in their eyes! Needless to say, we appreciated the offerings from other Viljandi artists more, including whimsical pieces from a children's book illustrator, stylish drawings from a graphic designer, and an impressive selection of traditional wooden and woolen handicrafts made by the local schoolchildren. Actually, it was encouraging that there were several places throughout our trip where we saw arts education and the learning of traditional crafts by the younger generation were being promoted. One of our favorites was an amusing series of paintings of animals with donuts decorating the walls of a donut shop (names, ages, and grades of the artists on proud display).

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