Thursday, April 26, 2012

Tallinn (Estonia) and Helsinki (Finland)

Just a 2.5 hr boat ride from Tallinn across the Gulf of Finland lies Helsinki, Finland. We arrived at the Tallinn port to discover crowds of people hitting up the liquor store in the terminal. Apparently, the skyrocketing prices that would meet us in Finland are so notorious that there are ads for deals of - not six packs - but cases (!) of drinks (soft or hard variety) that come with a complementary dolly for easy portability. What kind of place was it that we were heading that normal-looking families felt the need to stockpile hand carts of energy drinks and vodka?

One surprise meeting us first off was the ferry. It was really a cruise liner. Two thousand people swarmed the 9 decks in under 30 minutes. Had you not sprung the extra for a cabin, an early boarding and rush to claim the choicest seats should be in your plans, lest you be one of the unfortunate souls who had to huddle in a corner on the floor next to the raucous children's play area. In our innocence, we were lucky and rode the tide that ended up at tables in a bar with a decent view. The pros had already booked dinners in the buffet restaurant (sold out, even at 22 euros a head, which at the time we thought was a little pricey) or the fancy Italian place with white linens and a jacket and tie requirement. We survived on mashed potatoes and meatballs from the cafeteria that Rich said tasted like Ikea. To be fair, there were a fair amount of Swedes on board, and Swedish is the second official language in Finland.

Upon docking, we discovered fairer weather in Helsinki than we'd had all trip. Chilly, yes, especially as the night drew on, but sunnier than in the rest of the Baltics. If you weren't aware already that Finnish design is internationally renown, there are signs everywhere announcing Helsinki's appointment as the 2012 World Capital of Design. At the Design Museum, you can see what it's all about. The neo-Gothic exterior is nothing very special, but the interior houses a permanent collection showcasing the history of Finnish design in furniture, textiles, and other media. Objects like your standard orange-handled scissors (made by the Finnish company Fiskars) remind the visitor of their everyday contact with Finnish design. There's also an obvious but charming bias for Nokia - also Finnish - products. One exhibit traced the process from concept to finished piece, including a highly amusing student project where childless friends can utilize mock dolls in an attempt to reconnect with their friends who have reproduced... complete with a handy dictionary! Another fascinating exhibit highlighted how contemporary design can be used to solve international aid challenges. There was a sturdy flat-pack house with a porch for refugees, water containers that can be air-lifted to drought-stricken areas with parachutes that double as tents, and bicycles that store energy and monitor urban pollution and traffic. The only downside was that the "No Touch" rules of a museum are still in effect. This seemed a little unfair where texture and feel are integral to the design. 

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