Monday, April 9, 2012

Riga (Latvia)

Brr... it's cold here! Leaving Barcelona, where the tourists have already begun to appear in sunburned masses, for the snowy Baltics is a shock to the system. The upside is that visiting the former Soviet states in the low season means that British stag (bachelor) parties, which have boosted local tourism, seem noticeably absent.

First impressions of Latvia are not that promising. The landscape is flat, a thin layer of snow is on the ground and grey slush in the streets, and big box shopping malls abound. Not unlike the Midwest in the U.S. from which I fled, really.

Thankfully, Riga improves upon further inspection. The capital of Latvia has delightfully-colored gingerbread-like dwellings in the old city. The Blackheads' House could double as the face of a gilded cuckoo clock. Saint Peter's Lutheran Church has a fantastic Gothic spire, but the "Cat House," sporting a spooked black cat on the roof, is considered the most iconic symbol of Riga's skyline. The gorgeous architecture is almost overwhelming in the Art Nouveau district. Elaborate stone carvings of flora and fauna adorn the facades while human and monster faces stare down from the cornices. For a glimpse of more beauty, we also popped into the Riga Bourse Art Museum, which was hosting an exhibit of the wondrous works of Russian jeweler/artist Carl Fabergé (he of the Fabergé eggs).

Five ex-German zeppelin hangers house the Central Market, impressive even by Spanish standards. One whole hanger houses the fish market, where the catch is so fresh that the eels are slithering and the carp are still flopping. Shoppers purchase tubs of glistening caviar by the big scoop. Pastries sell for 0.30 Lats (0.43 €/0.56 USD) each, and we managed to decide on a couple of small danishes... and an almond-studded, circular concoction the size of our heads, which lasted for several days of delicious breakfasts. Cured meats and cheeses are also on prominent display in the market. The Latvian fondness for fresh milk products (including kefir, a fermented milk drink) were a welcome relief from the UHT milk (boxed milk) dominance in Spain.

Food outside the market is also ridiculously cheap. Latvia is in the European Union but hasn't yet been able to convert to the euro due to inflation issues (2014 is the predicted introduction). This made watching our budget a little easier. There seemed to be a lot of cafeteria-style joints, which also makes for easier ordering - just point - and the options are filling. Pelmeni (traditional Latvian dumplings akin to ravioli or potstickers) and pancakes (think blintzes) come with different savory or sweet fillings and are topped with a generous dollop of sour cream and sometimes jam. Most of our meals came to 5-8 Lats (7-11 €/9-15 USD) for 2 people, including alcohol and dessert!

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